Peonies are perennial garden classics, loved throughout the world for their extravagant, early summer blossoms. They are dependable, incredibly long-lived plants and will bloom for a generation or more with little or no attention. As cut flowers peonies have no rivals. Alone or in mixed bouquets, they have an elegant beauty and a delicate, unforgettable perfume.
STEP 1 - KNOW
START WITH A BETTER BULB
When you compare two peony plants side by side, it’s easy to see differences in quality. Longfield Gardens supplies grade #1 peonies, as shown at far left. A grade #2 peony is shown at right. It takes less time for the larger root to develop into a strong plant that produces lots of flowers.
STEP 2 - PLAN
Peonies are carefree plants and incredibly easy to grow. Here are a few tips to help you get the best results.
SUN AND SHADE: Peonies are sun-lovers and will perform best when they get at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. The more sun they get, the better they'll bloom, so it's best to plant your peonies in the sunniest location possible.
ZONE: Peonies are winter hardy in zones 3-8. Want to check your hardiness zone? You'll find the USDA Hardiness zone map HERE.
SOIL: Most plants, including peonies, grow best in loose, fertile, well-drained soil. You can improve the quality of your soil by adding compost and an all-purpose fertilizer at planting time. Avoid planting in areas where the soil is soggy or compacted.
WHEN TO PLANT: Bareroot peonies can be planted in spring or fall. The plants are not frost tender, so they can be planted 2 to 3 weeks before your frost-free date. Potted peonies may be planted at any time during the growing season.
WHERE TO PLANT PEONIES
PERENNIAL GARDENS: Peonies are ideal for perennial gardens, where their dark green foliage looks attractive all season long. In the fall, peony foliage often turns red or gold.
HEDGES AND FENCELINES: Peonies may be planted in a row to make a low hedge for enclosing a space, defining one side of a garden or bordering a walk. They also look great planted at the base of a split rail or chain link fence.
FOUNDATION PLANTINGS AND SHRUB BORDERS: Peonies have as much presence as a small-size shrub. As long as they are planted in well-drained soil and get enough light, peonies will thrive almost anywhere in your landscape.
STEP 3 - GROW
PLANTING IS AS EASY 1-2-3
1. Dig a 12" deep hole. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and then add some compost and a cup of all-purpose granular fertilizer (follow package directions).
2. Replace the rest of the soil and then dig an 8” deep hole.
3. Put the peony in the hole so the eyes (the growing tips) are positioned no more than 2” below the soil line. When peonies are planted too deeply, the plants will grow but may refuse to bloom. Cover the root with soil and water as needed.
PLANTING TIPS FOR PEONIES
To ensure an abundant display of flowers, peonies should be grown in full sun. Though some varieties will tolerate partial shade, less light usually means fewer flowers.
Peonies should be grown in well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral to slight alkaline pH. Over time, peonies develop a large root system and become difficult to move. When planting, take time to site your peonies in a place where they can grow happily for many years. Once established, the plants are relatively drought resistant.
All peonies flower in early summer, but the exact bloom time varies by cultivar. If you plant a combination of early, mid and late season bloomers, you can extend the peony season to a month or more. Peonies are ideal companions for other early summer perennials such as iris, alliums, and roses. Their foliage stays attractive all season long, which keeps borders looking full and provides a lush backdrop for other flowers.
Depending on the variety, most peonies grow 3 to 4 feet tall. A mature plant can easily measure up to 3 feet across, so it’s important to allow room for them to fill out. Surrounding peonies with a support cage will help keep the heavy flowers from sprawling when they get wet. Use a ready-made peony support or fashion your own from wood slats or 4" steel reinforcing wire. Supports should be put in place early -- before the plant is more than 8" tall.
Peonies are carefree plants that are rarely troubled by pests or disease. It takes at least two years for a young peony plant to get established, but once it has settled in, it will bloom reliably each year for a generation or more.
Peonies are fantastic cut flowers. They last for days in a vase and most varieties are also wonderfully fragrant. Peony stems may be cut while the flowers are in tight bud and stored in the refrigerator (in water) for several weeks. Bring the stems out into room temperature and the buds will open after several days.
STEP 4 - AFTERCARE
CARING FOR PEONIES AFTER THEY BLOOM
After the flowers have faded, use scissors to remove the spent flowerheads and the top 6 to 8" of the stem. This will keep the plants looking neat and will also prevent them from producing seed heads. Remove as little foliage as possible so the plants can produce the energy they need for next year’s flowers.
Fertilize peonies in the spring when the stems are about 6" tall. Sprinkle about a half cup of all-purpose granular fertilizer around the base of the plant. Pull any mulch or other debris away from the crown of the plant to keep the eyes from getting buried too deeply.
Peonies may remain in the same place for many years without being disturbed. Should the plants need to be moved, move them in the fall as they are entering dormancy, rather than in the spring when they are starting to grow.
Cut back the foliage and carefully dig up the entire root ball, which may be as large as 3 feet in diameter. Take care to dig deep and avoid breaking off roots. Set the clump on a tarp and work gently, damaging as few of the fleshy roots as possible. Use a sharp knife to divide the clump into sections and replant immediately. The less the roots are disturbed, the more quickly the plants will recover, though you can usually expect to lose at least one seasons of flowers.
Peonies are rarely troubled by pests or disease. A fungal disease called botrytis sometimes causes buds to blacken and shrivel as if they have been burned. The disease may also blacken young shoots and entire stems. As with all fungal diseases, wet weather increases infection. Remove and dispose of any affected tissues. The best control is preventative: remove spent flowers as soon as possible, avoid wetting the foliage with overhead irrigation, and encourage good air circulation by not crowding plants.