{"count":221,"next_page":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles.json?page=2&per_page=30","page":1,"page_count":8,"per_page":30,"previous_page":null,"articles":[{"id":41909217508891,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/41909217508891.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/41909217508891-6-Tips-for-Growing-Amaryllis","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":0,"vote_count":0,"section_id":360001008633,"created_at":"2025-10-08T19:28:43Z","updated_at":"2026-01-13T14:56:34Z","name":"6 Tips for Growing Amaryllis","title":"6 Tips for Growing Amaryllis","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-10-08T19:28:49Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

How to Select, Grow and Enjoy Amaryllis Indoors

Growing an amaryllis requires no special skills. In fact, once a bulb is ready to bloom, it will flower with or without you! But here are a few tips that will help you get the best possible results from these impressive, winter-blooming bulbs.

Purchase Large Bulbs for Lots of Flowers

Shop around and purchase the biggest amaryllis bulbs you can find. Jumbo, 34/36 cm bulbs will produce 3 stems with 4 to 5 flowers per stem. Smaller bulbs will give you fewer stems and fewer blossoms.

Keep in mind that some amaryllis varieties naturally produce smaller bulbs than others. Sometimes a 28/30 cm bulb is the largest size available.

\"6-tips-for-growing-amaryllis1.jpg\"

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Choose Several Different Varieties to Extend the Show

\n

There’s no way to know exactly when an amaryllis will flower, but some varieties tend to bloom sooner than others. If you want to have flowers all winter long, purchase a number of different varieties and don’t plant them all at the same time. Plant some bulbs in late fall and plant the rest in early winter.

\n

After planting, be patient. It usually takes a month or two for the bulbs to wake up and begin growing.

\n

\"6-tips-for-growing-amaryllis2.jpg\"

\n

Select the Right Pot and Use Good Soil

\n

Amaryllis have long stems and big flowers. A heavy pot with a wide base will help the plant stay upright. Choose a pot that is about 2” wider than the bulb. If you are planting several bulbs in one container they can be planted about an inch apart.

\n

Use a high-quality, sterile growing mix (to avoid fungus gnats). Moisten the soil, fill the pot a little more than half full and set the bulb on top. Add more soil, leaving the top 1/3 of the bulb exposed. 

\n

\"6-tips-for-growing-amaryllis3.jpg\"

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Water Sparingly

\n

After you plant your bulbs, water well to help settle them into their pots. Then keep the soil barely moist, applying no more than ¼ cup of water per week. For best results, grow your amaryllis in a relatively cool room (60-65°F) with bright, indirect light.

\n

The first thing to emerge from the bulb is usually a bud. Leaves and additional stems will follow. Rotating the pot every few days will help keep the stems straight.

\n

\"6-tips-for-growing-amaryllis4.jpg\"

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Make the Most of the Flowers

\n

Depending on the size of the bulb, you can expect 1 to 3 stems, each with 3 to 5 flowers. All of the stems may come out at once, or they may emerge over a period of 2 to 3 weeks.

\n

As with all fresh flowers, cool temperatures will extend their life. Amaryllis also make excellent cut flowers. Cut the stems right before the buds are ready to open, and display them in a vase with greens or other seasonal blooms.

\n

Use scissors to clip off faded blossoms. Once the stem has finished blooming, use a knife to to make a clean cut about 1\" above the bulb.

\n

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Keep or Toss the Bulbs

\n

An amaryllis bulb costs no more than a supermarket bouquet. Yet many people find it hard to part with the bulb once the flowering season is over. If you wish, you can save the bulb and try getting it to bloom again next year. 

\n

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Beyond Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca) is a highly sought-after ornamental grass known for its exceptionally vibrant blue foliage and compact, mound-forming habit. This no-fuss, low-maintenance, drought-tolerant plant thrives in sunny locations and well-drained soil, making it suitable for various garden settings. Its compact and tidy form ensures it will not overrun everything around it! In late spring and early summer, blonde seed heads appear on tall stems, adding visual interest.

 

Plan for Success
Full Sun
Blue Fescue ‘Beyond Blue’ prefers full sun (6+ hours daily) for the most intense blue foliage color. It can tolerate some partial shade, but the blue may not be as vibrant.

Hardiness Zone 3-9
Blue fescue thrives in hardiness zones 4-8. This means it can tolerate winter temperatures as low as -30°F

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location.
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil.
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture.
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant


Blue Fescue ‘Beyond Blue’ is versatile and fits beautifully in a variety of landscapes. Choose a sunny, well-draining location. Once established, this variety is drought tolerant and prefers low moisture.

Use as an accent plant in smaller gardens. It is ideal for creating a sophisticated edge along borders and walkways. Can be used as a low-maintenance ground cover for smaller gardens. It grows well in containers — its full and cascading foliage makes a great ‘spiller’ and ‘filler.’

 

 

What to Expect
 

Spring Planted Fescue Grasses
When planting bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see grass about 8” tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 12-18” tall and 18” wide.

Fall Planted Fescue Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

How to Care for Blue Fescue ‘Beyond Blue’
Blue Fescue ‘Beyond Blue’  is a low maintenance plant. Once established, it’s drought-tolerant so avoid over-watering. ‘Beyond Blue’ does not require fertilizing if grown in healthy soil. If fertilizing is needed, use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. Apply a layer of mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture.

 

Divide every 2-3 years in early spring to prevent the center from dying out and plant vigor. ‘Beyond Blue’ is an evergreen, so pruning is not necessary — simply remove dead foliage to allow room for new growth.

 

 

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Little Bluestem ‘Standing Ovation’

Little Bluestem 'Standing Ovation' (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a grass worthy of applause! Its compact, upright ornamental grass is prized for its vivid fall color and strong structure.

Blue-green foliage emerges in spring with striking red accents during the growing season that gradually deepening to rich shades of red, maroon, and purple in the fall. It stands out for maintaining its upright form during wind or heavy rain. Adaptable and low-maintenance, ‘Standing Ovation’ attracts birds and wildlife while also deer resistant.

 

Plan for Success
Full Sun
For the best color and form, ‘Standing Ovation’ should be grown in a full sun location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. It will tolerate light shade, but expect a loss of color intensity or flopping if it gets too much shade.

Hardiness Zone 3-9
Grows well in hardiness zones 3 through 9, tolerating cold winters and hot summers.

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.



 

When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant
Little Bluestem ‘Standing Ovation’ is versatile and fits beautifully in many landscape settings. Choose a sunny, well-draining location. Its tall stature is great as a vertical accent in the middle or back of a sunny border. Add color and texture in gardens and beds from summer through winter. This native plant supports pollinators and birds, so pair with other prairie perennials like coneflowers, black-eyed Susans and coreopsis for a beautiful wildlife garden that offers shelter and seeds for birds.

What to Expect
Spring Planted Little Bluestem Grasses
When planting bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see grass about 1.5ft tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 3-4ft tall and 2-3ft wide.

Fall Planted Little Bluestem Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

 

How to Care for Little Bluestem ‘Standing Ovation’
Caring for Little Bluestem ‘Standing Ovation’  is relatively easy. Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, it’s drought-tolerant so avoid over-watering as this can cause the plant to flop.

 

Standing Ovation does not require fertilizing. If clumps become too large, divide in early summer. Leave the foliage intact through the winter for visual interest and wildlife benefit.

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Maiden Grass 'Silver Cloud’

Maiden Grass 'Silver Cloud' (Miscanthus sinensis) is a striking ornamental grass prized for its tall, graceful structure, variegated leaves, and eye-catching silvery plumes. It offers texture, dynamic movement, and year-round visual interest in the garden.

The foliage transformation makes 'Silver Cloud' visually dynamic all year long, adding movement and changing tones to your landscape. In the spring, foliage emerges with green blades edged in creamy white variegation, forming an upright, fountain-like appearance. In the summer, pinkish-sliver plumes rise above the foliage. In the fall, the foliage takes on a golden-yellow hue while the plumes become more fluffy and white. In the winter, the dried foliage and plumes persist, providing winter interest and structure.

 

 

Plan for Success
Full to Part Sun
To ensure the strongest upright growth, best variegation and abundant plume growth, ‘Silver Cloud’ should be grown in a full sun location that receives 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. It will tolerate partial sun but flowering may be reduced or delayed.

Hardiness Zone 5-9
Maiden Grass ‘Silver Cloud’ is hardy in zones 5-9 and can tolerate winter temperatures down to -20ºF.

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant


Maiden Grass ‘Silver Cloud’ thrives in and looks impressive in a variety of landscape settings. Use it as a border at the back of garden beds where its height will create vertical interest. Plant solo or in small groups to show off its impressive plumes and variegated foliage. ‘Silver Cloud’ makes a perfect soft privacy screen that helps define spaces due to its tall, arching form. Plant along paths and fences as a natural, low-maintenance accent that softens hardscapes.

 

What to Expect

Spring Planted Maiden Grasses
When planting bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see grass about 2ft tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 4-6ft tall and 3-4ft wide.

Fall Planted Maiden Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

How to Care for Maiden Grass ‘Silver Cloud’
Caring for Maiden Grass ‘Silver Cloud’ is simple, making it a great low-maintenance ornamental grass. It is pest, disease and deer resistant. Plant in a full sun location in well-drained soil. Water regularly the first growing season to establish roots, but once established, it is drought tolerant and only requires occasional deep watering during dry periods. 

Cut back the foliage 4-6” above the ground in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Every 3-5 years, divide ‘Sliver Cloud’ in early spring or when you notice the center starting to thin or die out. Dividing will rejuvenate its appearance and keep your plant healthy and attractive for years to come.

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Big Bluestem ‘Holy Smoke’

Big Bluestem ‘Holy Smoke’ (Andropogon gerardii) is a striking ornamental cultivar of the native tallgrass prairie grass, grown for its vivid, season‐long foliage transformation and architectural form. Dubbed the \"monarch of the prairie,\" Big Bluestem grass was once the dominant component of the American tallgrass prairie. 'Holy Smoke' is a unique variety selected for vigor, sturdy stems, and wonderful changing colors throughout the seasons. Attracts butterflies, provides a bird seed source, is pollinator-friendly and deer resistant.

In the spring stems emerge with red tones beneath blades of blue-green. In the summer, foliage shifts to green with touches of maroon while the stems remain a bronzy-red. In late summer to fall, leaves transform into a display of smoky purple, burgundy, bronze, orange and pink—inspiring its name ‘Holy Smoke.’

 

Plan for Success
Full Sun
For the best color, Big Bluestem should be grown in full sun for at least 6 hours daily. It will tolerate light shade, but expect some color discoloration.

Hardiness Zone 3-8
Grows well in hardiness zones 3 through 8, tolerating cold temperatures ranging from -40ºF to 30ºF.

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant
Bluestem ‘Holy Smoke’ offers bold vertical interest and season-long color shifts. Great grown in small groupings, or large drifts for dramatic effect. Grow in well-drained locations where you want to host butterflies and provide seeds for birds from fall through winter. Ideally grown as a prairie or native plant, Big Bluestem helps prevent erosion on slopes.

What to Expect
When planting a bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

Spring Planted Big Bluestem Grasses
When planting bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see grass about 1.5ft tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 3-4ft tall and 2-3ft wide.

Fall Planted Big Bluestem Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

How to Care for Big Bluestem ‘Holy Smoke’
Caring for Big Bluestem ‘Holy Smoke’  is relatively easy. Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, water regularly but avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot. Bluestem does not require much fertilizer, but if needed, apply a balanced feed in the spring. If clumps become too large, divide in early summer.

Leave the foliage intact through the winter for visual interest and wildlife benefit. Prune in early spring, cutting the old stems and foliage down 2-4” above the ground.

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Feather Reed Grass ‘Karl Foerster’

Feather Reed Grass ‘Karl Foerster’ (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is one of the most beloved ornamental grasses - celebrated for its elegant vertical form, low maintenance, and year‑round interest. It offers an unmatched combination of elegance, ease, and seasonal beauty. It thrives in full sun with well-drained soil, requires minimal maintenance, and adds vertical drama to any garden - from borders to perennial beds or containers. Its rusty-gold coloring, deer-resistant nature, combined with its sterile seeding makes it both practical and visually captivating.

This stunning grass grows into a glossy green in early spring forming a narrow mound about 2‑3 ft wide and 2 ft tall, while flowering stalks rise to 5-6 ft, topped with feathery plumes. Flower plumes start rosy‑pink, then evolve through maroon and bronze to golden tan in fall; they persist through winter, adding interest and texture. This variety is deer resistant and cold hardy.

 

Plan for Success
Full Sun to Partial Shade
Feather reed grass thrives in full sun to partial shade, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. While it can tolerate some shade, insufficient sunlight can result in fewer plumes, floppiness, and a smaller overall plant size.

Hardiness Zone 3-9
Feather Reed Grass grows well in hardiness zones 3 through 9; cold hardy to zone 3 and heat tolerant up to zone 9.

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant
Feather Reed Grass ‘Karl Foerster’ is a versatile and beautiful grass with many uses! Due to its height, it makes a great backdrop for borders or vertical accent behind other sun perennials like black-eyed Susans or Russian sage. Its upright habit looks great framing structures, fences or patios. Use it to soften hardscapes or line paths and driveways. Its tall dense quality can create privacy when planted in rows along patios and decks.

What to Expect
 

Spring Planted Feather Reed Grasses
When planting bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see grass about 3ft tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 4-6ft tall and 2-3ft wide.

Fall Planted Feather Reed Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

How to Care for Feather Grass ‘Karl Foerster’
Caring for Feather Grass ‘Karl Foerster’  is relatively easy. Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, water regularly but avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot. Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring if growth seems sluggish or soil is poor. You can also add a light compost mulch to improve soil health. Dividing every 3 years is a great way to rejuvenate clumps and propagate new plants. Trim the entire grass down to 4-6” in late winter, early spring when the plant is still dormant.

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Little Bluestem ‘Jazz’

Little Bluestem ‘Jazz’ (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a compact, ornamental native grass developed for its smaller size, strong upright habit, and blue-toned foliage that turns shades of bronze and purple in the fall. It’s ideal for tighter garden spaces while still delivering the color, soft movement, and seasonal interest Little Bluestem is known for. It also produces fluffy, white seed heads in late summer and early fall, which persist through winter, adding visual interest.

 

Plan for Success
Full Sun
To flourish and exhibit its best color and upright growth, ‘Jazz’ should be grown in a full sun location that receives 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. While it will tolerate some partial shade, expect a loss of color intensity or flopping if it gets too much shade.

Hardiness Zone 3-9
Little Bluestem 'Jazz' (Schizachyrium scoparium 'Jazz') is an exceptionally hardy ornamental grass that thrives in zones 3 through 9. It can endure a broad range of temperatures, withstanding cold winters where temperatures drop as low as about -30°F (-34°C).

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant
Little Bluestem ‘Jazz’ is versatile and fits beautifully in many landscape and naturalizing settings. Choose a sunny, well-draining location.

‘Jazz’ is a natural fit for meadow plantings and wildlife gardens to provide erosion control, food and shelter for birds and butterflies. In landscapes, the upright growth habit and beautiful fall color make excellent borders. As a mass planting in groups or drifts, it creates a stunning visual effect that highlights its foliage and seed heads.

 

What to Expect

Spring Planted Little Bluestem Grasses
When planting bare root grass, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.


The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see grass about 12” tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 24-30” tall and 18” wide.

Fall Planted Little Bluestem Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses.

 

How to Care for Little Bluestem ‘Jazz’
Caring for Little Bluestem ‘Jazz’  is relatively easy. Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, it’s drought-tolerant so avoid over-watering as this can cause the plant to flop. ‘Jazz’ does not require fertilizing.

If clumps become too large, divide in early summer. Leave the foliage intact through the winter for visual interest and wildlife benefit. Prune in early spring, cutting the old stems and foliage down 2-4” above the ground.

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Switchgrass ‘North Wind’

Switchgrass ‘North Wind’ is a standout ornamental cultivar of Panicum virgatum. This 2014 PPA Plant of the Year is a striking, upright ornamental grass valued for its strong vertical habit and distinctive foliage. Its clumping form showcases olive- to blue-green leaves that turn a vibrant golden yellow in autumn.

In late summer, it produces airy golden flower panicles that add a soft, graceful texture. A native of North America, this adaptable cultivar thrives in a range of soil conditions and provides year-round visual appeal, thanks to its persistent seed heads and winter structure.

Plan for Success
Full to Part Sun
Switchgrass prefers full sun with 6+ hours daily. It can tolerate part shade, but too much shade can lead to floppiness.

Hardiness Zone 4-9
Switchgrass 'Northwind' is reliably hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This means it can tolerate the temperatures found in these zones, which range from -30 to -40°F in the north (zone 4) to 20 to 30°F in the south (zone 9).

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant

‘North Wind’ is perfect for screens, mass plantings, tight borders along walkways or as a feature plant at the back of the border. Its upright form persists through winter where it can provide shelter and seeds for birds and other wildlife. Excellent for erosion control, soil stabilization and restoration plantings.

 

What to Expect
 

Spring Planted Switchgrasses
When planting a bare root Switchgrass ‘North Wind’, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see a tidy clump of grass about 3ft tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 4-5ft tall and 2ft wide.

Fall Planted Switchgrasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

How to Care for Switchgrass ‘North Wind’


Switchgrass ‘North Wind’ is a top-tier option that combines beauty, low maintenance, and ecological function. Care is simple—it’s one of the most low-maintenance and resilient ornamental grasses you can grow.

Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, minimal water is required; water only during prolonged dry periods. Leave the stems standing through winter as they look beautiful with frost/snow and offer wildlife shelter. Cut back to 4-6” above the ground in early spring, before new growth begins. Divide every 3-5 years in early spring or late fall to maintain vigor, prevent the centers from drying out and to multiply your plants!

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Switchgrass ‘Prairie Dog’

Switchgrass ‘Prairie Dog’ (Panicum virgatum) is a compact cultivar of the native switchgrass, valued for its upright form and striking blue-green foliage. This shorter variety typically grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet, making it perfect for smaller gardens.

Known for its strong, snow-tolerant stems, it adds visual interest to the winter landscape while offering shelter for birds. This switchgrass has small, teardrop-shaped flower seeds that appear in the summer with purplish-reddish tips. It turns to shades of yellow in the fall and lightens further in the winter.

 

Plan for Success
Full to Part Sun 
‘Prairie Dog’ thrives in full sun and grows well in sandy, clay, or loamy soils with moderate to wet moisture. Once established, it becomes tolerant of drought conditions.

Hardiness Zone 4-9
Switchgrass 'Prairie Dog' is reliably hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This means it can tolerate the temperatures found in these zones, which range from -30 to -40°F in the north (zone 4) to 20 to 30°F in the south (zone 9).

Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. \nDig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. \nPlace the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. \nBuild a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. \nBackfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

 

Where to Plant
Prairie Dog’s compact habit is ideal for many landscape settings. Use as a border along the front of taller perennials. Its tidy form adds structure and texture without overpower surrounding plants, making it perfect for creating curb appeal and softening front house walkways. Combine with coneflowers, black-eyed Susans and liatris to create a pollinator haven. Its deep roots are great for erosion control. Its compact size makes it suitable for containers and patio planters as long as they are watered more regularly than their garden counterparts.

What to Expect
 

Spring Planted Switchgrasses
When planting a bare root Switchgrass ‘Prairie Dog’, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones because it is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see a tidy clump of grass about 3ft tall and 8” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 3-4ft tall and 2ft wide.

Fall Planted Switchgrasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses.

How to Care for Switchgrass ‘Prairie Dog’
Switchgrass ‘Prairie Dog’ is an easy-to-grow ornamental grass, growing best in full sun and moist soil, but is drought tolerant, adjusting to various temperatures and soil conditions. This low-maintenance plant is resistant to disease and not bothered by pests.

It is one of the most low-maintenance and resilient ornamental grasses you can grow. Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, minimal water is required; water only during prolonged dry periods. 

Leave the stems standing through winter as they look beautiful with frost/snow and offer wildlife shelter. Cut back to 4-6” above the ground in early spring, before new growth begins. Divide every 3-5 years in the spring if it becomes crowded or needs rejuvenation.

 

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Carex EverColor® ‘Everillo’

Carex EverColor® ‘Everillo’, a cultivar of Carex oshimensis, plays a versatile and valuable role in gardens and landscapes due to its striking appearance, low maintenance needs, and adaptability. Its vivid lime to golden yellow foliage provides a bold pop of color in sunny or part-shade areas where other plants may look dull. This stunning deer and rabbit resistant variety is evergreen, providing you color and texture year-round.

 

Plan for Success

Shade to Part Shade

Carex ‘Everillo’ performs best in dappled sunlight, morning sun, or bright indirect light.  It tolerates full sun, but its color will be its most vibrant in partial shade, making it a great option for darker garden corners or shaded containers. More than 6 hours of direct sunlight can cause the foliage color to fade.

Hardiness Zone 5-9

Carex, or sedge grass, can survive winter temps in zone 5 but thrives in warmer climates over winter. In colder zones (zone 5) mulching will help protect the roots. In warmer zones (8-9), shade from the hot afternoon sun will preserve its vivid lime-gold foliage.

Bare Root vs Potted

Bare root perennials often provide better value, a wider selection, and potentially healthier plants than potted ones. They typically establish more quickly, grow faster, and are easier to plant.

 

When to Plant

Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

    \n
  1. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. Place the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. Build a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. Backfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. \nContinue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    1. Water deeply.
    \n
    6. \n

 

Where to Plant

Carex is a versatile ornamental grass that can be used in many creative and fun ways. Use as a border in shady locations or woodland gardens. Plant around trees or under larger shrubs where sunlight is filtered. Plant along streams, ponds or other water features in your landscape. Sedge grass is stunning planted in mass as ground cover or edging for shaded front landscape paths or garden beds. In smaller areas, Carex makes a great container plant for shady porches and patios.

What to Expect

Spring Planted Sedge Grasses
When planting a bare root Carex (sedge) in the spring, you can expect a somewhat slow start, but with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. The foliage may appear brownish or faded due to its dormancy. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

 

 

The roots will be exposed and may look dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see a tidy clump of grass about 8” tall and 6” wide. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season at 12-18” tall and 12-18”wide.

Fall Planted Sedge Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. After going dormant for the winter, growth begins in early spring and will be gradual as the temperatures rise but will become steady as the season progresses. 
 

How to Care for Carex EverColor® ‘Everillo’

Carex ‘Everillo’ is a brilliant go-to for injecting long-lasting color and texture into gardens, containers, and contemporary landscapes. It’s both an aesthetic and functional asset that brings year-round vibrancy with minimal fuss.

Caring is relatively easy. Keep the soil consistently moist when newly planted. Once established, water regularly but avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot. Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring if growth seems sluggish or soil is poor. You can also add a light compost mulch to improve soil health. Dividing every 3 years is a great way to rejuvenate clumps and propagate new plants. It is not necessary to trim down ‘Everillo’ as it is an evergreen type; simply remove brown or damaged leaves to keep your plants fresh.

 

 

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All About Ornamental Grasses- Planning, Planting, and Aftercare

Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses are a fun and easy way to bring texture, movement, and even a bit of soothing sound to your garden. They're super versatile—you can use them almost anywhere in your landscape to create a bold focal point or add contrast to other plants. Once they’ve settled in, they don’t need much care and can handle dry spells like a champ!

 


Plan for Success
The vast majority of ornamental grasses thrive in full sun locations—some varieties require 6-8 hours daily to reach their maximum growth and color potential. Varieties that prefer shade to part shade will discolor or scorch if they get too much sun, so refer to your specific variety before deciding where to plant it in your garden.

 

SUN: 6+ hours of direct sunlight per day

PART SUN: 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day

SHADE: 2-4 hours of direct sunlight per day, usually during the morning hours

Hardiness Zones
Ornamental grasses grow well in most parts of the country—generally in USDA zones 3 to 11. But keep in mind, some types do better in cooler areas (like zones 3–7), while others love the heat and sunshine in warmer zones (7–11). Refer to your specific variety to make sure it’s a good match for your climate!


Bare Root vs Potted
Bare root perennials are a smart and budget-friendly way to grow your garden. They often give you more bang for your buck and can even grow into stronger, healthier plants than the potted ones you see in stores.

Since bare root plants are grown in open soil, their roots develop naturally and form helpful connections with the soil—making them more resilient once planted. They also tend to settle in faster and grow quickly in their new spot.

When you buy bare root grasses, they are dormant (basically “asleep”), so they’re not actively growing. That makes them less likely to suffer from transplant shock and helps them adjust more easily than potted plants that have already started growing.

Plus, because there’s no pot or extra soil involved, bare root plants usually cost less—making them a great choice if you’re planting a larger area or just want to save a little money while still getting great results.


When to Plant
Planting bare root ornamental grasses in the fall gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter, resulting in healthier growth and more vibrant displays in spring. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall of fall create ideal conditions for root establishment.

 

Plant your bare root grass within a week of bringing it home. If you are unable to plant within a week and need to push out planting up to 2 weeks, keep the roots moist, but not saturated. You can wrap them in a paper towel or burlap and secure them with twine. Store in a cool, dark place (unheated shed or garage).

 

How to Plant

Before planting, hydrate the roots by submerging them in water for at least an hour to ensure they are hydrated.

 

    \n
  1. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the roots and the same depth in a well-drained, shade location
    2. \n
  2. Place the roots in the hole with the top of the root crown slightly higher than the surrounding soil
    3. \n
  3. Build a water-retaining berm around the hole to retain moisture
    4. \n
  4. Backfill the hole halfway with soil and water thoroughly to eliminate any pockets of air around the roots.
    5. \n
  5. Continue backfilling with soil until the soil is level.
    6. \n
  6. Water deeply.
    7. \n

Where to Plant
Ornamental grasses can be used in many creative and fun ways. The variety of heights, widths, colors and blooms create interest in gardens and landscapes year round.

 

Taller varieties can be used as a border at the back of garden beds where its height will create vertical interest. Many taller varieties also make perfect soft privacy screens that help define spaces. Planting along paths and fences act as natural, low-maintenance accents that soften hardscapes.

 

Use ornamental grasses as a border in shady locations or woodland gardens. Part sun and shade varieties can be planted around trees or under larger shrubs where sunlight is filtered. Plant along streams, ponds or other water features in your landscape. Smaller varieties makes a great container plant for shady porches and patios.

 

Many ornamental grasses persist through winter to provide shelter and seeds for birds and other wildlife. Grasses are generally excellent for erosion control, soil stabilization and restoration plantings.

 

What to Expect
When planting bare root ornamental grasses in the spring, you can expect a somewhat slow start. But with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones above the root ball because the plant is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

Spring Planted Grasses
When planting bare root ornamental grasses in the spring, you can expect a somewhat slow start. But with proper care, it will establish well and grow into a healthy, attractive plant. You may see no foliage or just a few brownish ones above the root ball because the plant is dormant. This is normal! Focus on the roots and potential rather than the top of the plant.

The roots will be exposed and may look somewhat dry. Soaking them before planting is helpful. In the first 2 weeks after planting, you won’t be able to see it, but the roots will begin to wake up. Within 3-6 weeks, you may see new green shoots start to emerge, especially if the weather is warm. Growth is slow and modest at first, so be patient. By one full season, you will see a tidy clump of grass develop. Over the years, it will gradually get larger and reach its full potential by the 3rd growing season.

Fall Planted Grasses
When planted in the fall, these grasses benefit from cooler temperatures and moist soil, allowing their roots to establish before winter. While top growth may not be immediately vigorous, the root system will develop underground, setting the stage for strong, healthy growth in spring. Expect minimal maintenance over winter as most varieties are hardy and enjoy their striking seed heads and foliage, which add visual appeal even in colder months. Come spring, they’ll burst to life with renewed energy and vibrant color. 
 

How to Care for Ornamental Grasses


Ornamental grasses are relatively easy to care for. Simply follow the sun, water and fertilizing requirements for your specific variety. Dividing every 3-5 years is a great way to rejuvenate clumps and propagate new plants.

Evergreen grasses don’t need much pruning. Instead, they only require some tidying up with a light trim. Unlike deciduous grasses that die back in winter and need to be cut down to the ground, evergreen grasses generally stay green all year. In early spring, remove any dead or dry leaves and old flower stems. You can do this by gently pulling them out with your hands, gently using a rake, or trimming the damaged parts with scissors or garden shears.

Deciduous grasses like a good haircut in late winter or early spring—just before they start growing again. Trim them down to about 3–5 inches above the ground. This helps fresh, healthy growth come in strong and keeps the old, dead leaves from getting in the way. It's a simple step that makes a big difference!

Click the variety below to find out more information:

Carex Evercolor® ‘Everillo’

Feather Reed Grass ‘Karl Foerster’

Big Bluestem ‘Holy Smoke’

Switchgrass ‘North Wind’

Switchgrass ‘Prairie Dog’

Little Bluestem ‘Standing Ovation’

Little Bluestem ‘Jazz’

Maiden Grass ‘Silver Cloud’

Blue Fescue ‘Beyond Blue’

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Please open the box as soon as it arrives and check the contents. The ventilated bags help to maintain the correct moisture levels, but temperature and humidity are unpredictable during shipping. Your bulbs should feel solid and firm. Bare root plants should feel lightly damp – not wet and not completely dry. If you are unable to plant right away, store the opened box in a cool, dark place away from heat and freezing temperatures. Most bulbs may be stored in their bags for up to a month.

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Plant your bulbs any time before the ground begins to freeze – there’s no need to rush. The ideal planting time is after the first killing frost when the soil is cool. If you garden in zones 8-10, your bulbs may need to be pre-chilled before planting.

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Prepare the Soil

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Bulbs should be planted in soil that is loose and well-drained. They will not grow in soggy soil. To improve the planting area, loosen the soil a little deeper than the recommended planting depth and mix in compost or other organic matter.

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Check the Depth

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As a rule, spring-blooming bulbs should be planted 2-3 times deeper than their height. So a 2 ½” tall tulip bulb should be planted 5-7” deep. Recommended planting depths are printed on each package.

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Pointy End Up

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Most bulbs have a flattened bottom where the roots will grow and a tapered top where the stem will emerge. When planting, the tapered end of the bulb should face up. If you can’t determine bottom from top, don’t worry too much. Bulbs naturally grow toward light and warmth.

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Plant in Groups

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Spring bulbs look best when they are planted together in odd numbers and irregular shapes. To plant a large area fast, dig out the soil from the planting bed and place it on a tarp. Position the bulbs and then gently replace the soil. Recommended spacing varies and is printed on each package.

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Sun vs Shade

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Spring-blooming bulbs prefer to grow in full sun, but because they bloom before the trees leaf out, even a shady area will usually give them plenty of sunlight.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":36690908129307,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/36690908129307.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/36690908129307-All-About-Scilla-Madeirensis","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":0,"vote_count":0,"section_id":115000710953,"created_at":"2025-05-06T17:46:37Z","updated_at":"2025-05-06T17:46:41Z","name":"All About Scilla Madeirensis","title":"All About Scilla Madeirensis","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-05-06T17:46:41Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":1359314,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Scilla Maderiensis

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Scilla madeirensis is a rare species of hyacinth that grows on the island of Madeira, off the coast of Portugal. Until recently, there were only two ways to see this wonderful plant in flower: search for it on the rocky cliffs of Madeira or catch it in bloom at one of the few botanical gardens that have it in their collection.

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Now Scilla madeirensis bulbs are being commercially propagated, so for the first time ever, these bulbs are available to the public. This is good news for gardeners who are looking for an interesting new bulb to grow indoors during late fall and early winter.

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Scilla madeirensis is exotic in every way -- starting with the bulbs, which are dark purple! They are similar in size and shape to an amaryllis bulb and are grown in much the same way. Like amaryllis, Scilla madeirensis is a tropical plant and only hardy to zones 9-10. In most parts of the country, it will need to be grown indoors or in a cool greenhouse.

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How to Plant

\n

Plant the bulb in early fall, when daytime temperatures have cooled down to 50-60°F. Choose a pot that will comfortably accommodate the bulb, leaving at least an inch of clearance on all sides and at least 4\" under the bulb for the roots. Put several inches of moist, high quality potting soil or growing mix into the pot and then settle the bulb on top. Fill in around the bulb, keeping the neck and shoulders of the bulb above the soil -- just as with an amaryllis. Water to settle in the bulb and then water sparingly, keeping the soil barely moist. Put the pot in bright, indirect light.

\n
\nIt usually takes about a month for the bulb to come out of dormancy. The first thing you will see is a fat green sprout, very similar to the sprout from a standard hyacinth bulb. Within a couple weeks the spike will have reached 12\" tall and the sparkling, lavender-blue florets will start to open. While it's in bloom, keep the plant out of direct sunlight and in a relatively cool room (65°F) to extend the show.\n
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After flowering, treat the bulb as you would an amaryllis. Cut off the flower stalk and continue watering sparingly. Keep the pot in bright, indirect light. The leaves will usually persist into early spring and then wither away as the bulb enters dormancy. Store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark, dry place until autumn, when you can repot it in moist soil and start again. Over time, the original bulb may produce daughter bulbs on the side. It's best to let the bulbs stay together in a clump, as this will give you a more dramatic display of blooms.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":34006465084571,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/34006465084571.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/34006465084571-All-About-Nerines","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":1,"vote_count":1,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2025-02-13T20:40:06Z","updated_at":"2025-02-13T20:40:09Z","name":"All About Nerines","title":"All About Nerines","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-02-13T20:40:09Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Nerines

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These members of the amaryllis family, also known as Guernsey lilies or spider lilies, are native to South Africa. The bulbs burst into bloom in early fall when most other flowering plants are fading away. Like amaryllis, nerines are sensitive to cold weather and are winter hardy only in zones 9-11. Cold climate gardeners can plant the bulbs in spring for autumn blooms and then bring the bulbs indoors for winter.

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What to Know About Nerines

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The flowers of nerines are produced in clusters at the top of leafless stems. Each flower is about 2” across and has narrow, recurved petals with prominent stamens and anthers. Pink is the most common flower color, though white and red flowers are also available.

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Nerines have narrow, strappy, slightly floppy leaves, similar to those of a daffodil. These leaves emerges from the bulb in early summer and die back in early fall, just before the flowers start to bloom. You can expect each bulb to produce at least one, 12-24\" tall flower stalk with 4-10 buds.

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\"nerine.jpg\"

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How to Plant Nerines

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In areas where nerines are winter hardy (zones 8-10), the bulbs may be planted directly into the garden. Choose a sunny or mostly sunny spot that provides some shelter from wind. Most importantly, make sure the soil is very well drained. Nerines need moisture in the spring, but the soil should be quite dry during the rest of the year. Plant the bulbs 4” apart with the neck of the bulb about 1” above the soil surface. Nerines like sun on their necks and good air circulation. Avoid crowding them with other plants.

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In colder areas, growing nerines in pots makes it easier to provide the bright sunlight and warm, well-drained soil these plants need to thrive. When the bulbs are in pots, it's also easier to bring them indoors for the winter. Like amaryllis, nerines have fleshy roots that need plenty of room to expand. Choose a container with a drainage hole that is large enough to provide ample root space. Space the bulbs about 3” apart, and plant so the neck of the bulb is exposed. Water sparingly until the bulbs sprout.

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\"screen-shot-2023-01-11-at-9.38.38-am.png\"

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How to Care for Nerines

\n

Though nerines need moisture when they are in active growth, it’s important not to overwater them. While the bulbs are dormant, they should not be watered at all. Fertilizing with a water-soluble, low nitrogen fertilizer can improve flowering. Do this only when the bulbs are in active growth (with green leaves) and apply at half the recommended rate.

\n

Once the bulb’s leaves die back in late summer, you can simply pull them away. Remove the flowers as soon as they finish blooming to help the plant conserve energy for the following year.

\n

If storing nerine bulbs indoors during the winter, keep them totally dry and don't let them get colder than 45°F.

\n

Nerines dislike being disturbed and flower best when the bulbs are crowded. This is another good reason to grow them in pots. Divide nerines only when the clumps become congested and flowering declines. The bulbs should bloom the first year after planting, but if they don’t, give them another year to settle in.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":33952098036251,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/33952098036251.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/33952098036251-All-About-Flowering-Trees-and-Shrubs","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":3,"vote_count":3,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2025-02-12T15:15:08Z","updated_at":"2025-09-15T14:23:37Z","name":"All About Flowering Trees and Shrubs","title":"All About Flowering Trees and Shrubs","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-02-12T15:15:15Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Flowering Trees and Shrubs

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Trees and shrubs have an important role to play in every home landscape. You can use them to help to define garden rooms, frame a view, increase privacy, provide scale, create shade, and add seasonal interest with their foliage, flowers and fruit.

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Plan for Success

\n

Sun and Shade. Most flowering trees and shrubs perform best when they are planted in full sun. While some grow well in or even prefer part shade, most need a minimum of 6 hours of sun per day. Before planting, check the plant's light requirements and select a location that matches its needs.

\n

Hardiness Zone. Some flowering trees and shrubs are able to tolerate colder temperatures than others. Flower buds are usually more sensitive to cold than the plant itself. To ensure a good display of flowers, make sure you choose plants that are hardy for your growing zone.

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When to Plant

\n

Bare root trees and shrubs are shipped in late winter or early spring and usually arrive in a dormant state. For best results, plant them upon arrival. Trees and shrubs that are purchased in containers may be planted in spring, summer or fall.

\n

How to Plant Flowering Trees and Shrubs

\n

Start by soaking the roots in a bucket of water for up to an hour. Loosen the soil in the planting area to a depth of 12-18.” Mix in several handfuls of compost and approximately ½ cup of all-purpose granular fertilizer (follow package directions). Now remove enough soil to accommodate the roots, making a hole that is as deep as the roots and twice as wide.

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Make a small mound of soil in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots evenly over the mound. The crown of the plant (where stem and roots meet) should be even with the natural soil level. Backfill the hole and press gently to firm. If you wish, you can create a 1-2” berm around the outer edges of the soil to help retain water. Water slowly and deeply to eliminate any air pockets and make sure the roots are in good contact with the surrounding soil.

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Where to Plant Flowering Trees and Shrubs

\n

Flowering trees and shrubs may be planted almost anywhere around your home. Add them to existing gardens, use them to beautify new areas of your yard, or to create privacy. Many flowering trees and shrubs also provide nectar and berries for wildlife.

\n

Before planting, be aware of the plant’s preferred sun exposure and choose a place where it will get the right amount of light. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and you should be able to get water to the plants if natural rainfall is inadequate. Be sure to also consider the tree or shrub's mature size and give it enough space to reach its full potential.

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What to Expect

\n

Once planted, it takes most trees and shrubs a full growing season to settle in and get their root system established. During this time, they should be watered deeply (enough to reach the root zone) once per week when natural rainfall is insufficient. Mulching the surface of the soil around the plant with shredded bark or shredded leaves will help keep the roots moist and minimize weed growth. In the second year, the plant will begin to grow more vigorously. It can also go for longer periods without water, though this depends on your climate and growing conditions. Flowering may not begin until the third year, and will increase as the plant matures.

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\"flowering.jpg\"

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How to Care for Flowering Trees and Shrubs

\n

Flowering trees and shrubs may be pruned to control the size and shape of the plant. Those that flower in the spring should be pruned immediately after the flowers fade. If you prune them later in the growing season, you will remove some of next year’s flower buds. Trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges.

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If branches are broken due to storms or other events, they should be pruned away. Use sharp pruning tools and make clean, smooth cuts to promote fast healing.  

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Trees and shrubs may be fertilized in late fall or early spring. Use a balanced fertilizer or one that is slightly higher in phosphorus. Always follow package directions for application rates. Over-fertilizing can be harmful to plants.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":32564523638683,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/32564523638683.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/32564523638683-Growing-Amaryllis-Outdoors","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":0,"vote_count":0,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2025-01-07T17:19:29Z","updated_at":"2025-01-08T13:40:14Z","name":"Growing Amaryllis Outdoors","title":"Growing Amaryllis Outdoors","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-01-08T13:40:14Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Gardening With Amaryllis in Warm Climates

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Do you live in an area where winter temperatures never dip below 20°F (hardiness zones 9-11)? If so, you can grow amaryllis outdoors as a perennial plant. These tropical bulbs may be planted in the ground or in pots, and be left outdoors year-round. You can look forward to an impressive display of flowers in your garden each spring. And, if you wish, you may cut the stems and bring the flowers indoors to create a dramatic bouquet that lasts for weeks.

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The following instructions apply only to gardeners in growing zones 9-11.

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\"growingamaryllisoutdoors4.jpg\"

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Get the Basics About Growing Amaryllis Outdoors

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The bulbs that we know as amaryllis, are actually members of the genus Hippeastrum. This family of bulbs can be found growing wild in tropical and sub-tropical regions of Brazil as well as in some parts of Peru, Argentina, Mexico and the Caribbean. Plant breeders have been hybridizing amaryllis for more than a century and we can thank them for introducing scores of beautiful cultivars.

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Today, amaryllis bulbs are grown commercially in Holland, Israel, South Africa, Peru and several other countries. The bulbs are typically available for purchase in the fall, from September through December. Remember that inside each bulb is a living plant, so it's important to care for the bulbs properly and plant them as soon as possible.

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Where to Plant Amaryllis

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For the first growing season, consider keeping your amaryllis bulbs in containers so you can enjoy the flowers indoors or on your patio. Then, after the blossoms fade, you can transfer the bulbs into your garden. Newly purchased amaryllis bulbs come into bloom quickly -- usually within 2 to 3 months. Once the bulbs have been growing in your garden for a full year, their normal bloom time will be early spring.

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Amaryllis bulbs are typically more robust and produce more flowers when they are grown in full sun. But in hot climates, strong afternoon sunlight and extremely high temperatures can stress the plants and cause leaf scorching. The flowers also last longer if they are shaded during the hottest part of the day.

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This is another good reason to plant your newly-purchased amaryllis bulbs in containers. During the first growing season, it will be easy to move the plants around until you find the best combination of sun and shade for your growing conditions.

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Amaryllis are native to arid climates and the plants require very little moisture. In fact, the bulbs will rot if they are grown in wet soil. Be sure to plant your amaryllis in a well-drained area where water will not collect. This is especially important during the winter months when the bulbs are dormant. If you don’t have a suitable place to plant the bulbs, grow them in pots. If possible, choose a planting location where the tall stems and big blossoms will be protected from strong wind and heavy downpours.

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\"growingamaryllisoutdoors1.jpg\"

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How to Plant Amaryllis Bulbs Outdoors

\n

When amaryllis are growing in their native habitat, the neck and shoulders of the bulb are usually at or slightly above the soil surface. In areas where there is no danger of frost, plant your amaryllis so the top ¼ of the bulb is exposed. If frost is a possibility, you may protect the bulb by covering it with several inches of soil or mulch.

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If you are planting multiple bulbs, space them 12-15” apart so each flower cluster has room to shine. After planting, water well to settle the bulb. Then water sparingly until the plant has sent up a flower spike or is producing leaves. If the area is mulched, pull the mulch away from the top of the bulb so it’s not covered.

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\"growingamaryllisoutdoors3.jpg\"

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Care After Flowering

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After the flowers fade, use a sharp knife to cut off the stalks, leaving 1” stubs. Allow the leaves to grow throughout the summer. This is when the bulb will produce the energy it needs to bloom the next spring. To encourage strong growth, apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer once a month during late spring and summer. Amaryllis require very little water and overwatering is a sure way to kill the bulb. Natural rainfall is usually adequate, though you may need to water during periods of drought.

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In mid to late fall, amaryllis usually enter a 3-4 month dormancy period. During this time, is normal for some or all of the foliage to yellow and die back. The bulb will then rest until it is ready to bloom again.

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\"growingamaryllisoutdoors2.jpg\"

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Divide Only When Necessary

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Over time, an amaryllis bulb will usually produce “daughter” bulbs around the sides of the main bulb. Eventually, these young bulbs will get large enough to produce their own flowers and you’ll get a bigger clump of flowers. If you want to move some of these bulbs to a new area or want to share them, you can dig and divide the original bulb.

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The best time to divide an amaryllis bulb is in the fall when the plant is dormant. Wait until the foliage dies back and then dig up the entire clump. Gently separate some or all the offsets from the mother bulb. Replant a soon as possible. If necessary, you may store the bulbs in a cool, dry place and replant them in mid to late fall.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":30775989374491,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/30775989374491.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/30775989374491-How-to-Grow-Callas-and-Caladiums-In-Containers","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":2,"vote_count":2,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2024-11-08T19:24:55Z","updated_at":"2025-07-03T16:20:29Z","name":"How to Grow Callas and Caladiums In Containers","title":"How to Grow Callas and Caladiums In Containers","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-07-03T16:20:29Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

How to Grow Callas & Caladiums In Containers

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This sophisticated duo of flowers and foliage is perfect for adding exciting color to your outdoor living space. Carolyn Whorton’s brilliantly colored pink, red and dark green leaves pair perfectly with the tall elegant purple flowers of Durban. These varieties are heat-tolerant and bloom through summer, creating a statement piece for your patio and porch.

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\"Asset

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What’s Included in Your Kit

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Your kit includes a bag of soil, 3 caladium bulbs, 1 calla lily bulbs, a decorative pot, a lid and a small plastic bag containing 4 rubber base plugs.

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\"Blue_Durban

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Step 1: Save the Base Plugs

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This kit includes a bag of 4 rubber base plugs. To install, press firmly on the top of the plug until the wider top is flush against the base of the pot. Install the base plugs when starting your plants indoors or when moving inside to store for the winter. When the plugs are removed for outdoor use, this provides adequate drainage for your soil. When indoors, these plugs prevent a leaking mess. 

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Step 2: Arrange Bulbs & Soil

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Fill the container with 2/3 of the soil included in your kit. Arrange the calla bulb with the tops facing up in a small ring towards the center of the container. Then, place the caladium bulbs in a ring surrounding the calla. Cover the bulbs with the remaining soil so that they are 2” below the surface of the soil. 

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Step 3: Watering

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Water lightly upon first planting. Once established, when rooted and stem shoots are above the soil line, water once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. While they are heat tolerant, callas and caladiums planted in containers tend to dry out faster than planted in the garden. 

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Water thoroughly when the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. To check soil, place a finger 1” below the soil’s surface to feel for moisture. If your foliage turns brown, you may be overwatering.

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Step 4: After Care

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This combination grows best in part shade. Place your container in a location where it receives 4-6 hours of sunlight each day. After planting, it may take 2 weeks or more for the first shoots to appear. Once this happens, the plants grow quickly.

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Spring-planted calla lilies and caladiums will bloom from summer through fall. In warm climates where they are perennial, the plants typically flower earlier in the summer.

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\"Aaron--Golden-Chalice_2G3A1502.JPG\"

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Step 5: Caring for Calla Lilies After They Bloom

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During the growing season, calla lilies and caladiums appreciate a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer. This is especially important when they are grown in containers.

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In climates where calla lilies are winter hardy (zones 8-10), the bulbs may be left in the ground to bloom again the next summer. If flowering decreases over time, dig and divide the bulbs to restore vigorous growth. In cooler areas (zones 3-7), calla lilies and caladiums are treated as annuals and planted new each year. Alternatively, the bulbs may be overwintered indoors, though flower production may be diminished the second year.

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Step 6: How to Winterize Your Bulbs

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Fertilizing your container garden throughout the growing season gives them a better base for overwintering. Cut off the flower stems of the calla lilies as soon as the blooms fade. This will prevent the plants from setting seed and help conserve energy for next year’s flowers. Continue fertilizing until the foliage of both plants begin to wither. At the end of the blooming season, but before the first frost around mid-late fall, dig up the bulbs and trim off the foliage, leaving an inch or two of stem attached. Let the bulbs cure in a warm, dry place for two weeks and then put them into a cardboard (not plastic) box with barely damp peat moss or sawdust. Store the box in a dark place at 50-60°F. Check once or twice during the winter to make sure the bulbs are not too moist (rotting) or too dry (shriveling). Replant in spring.

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How to Grow Caladiums In Containers

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Florida Cardinal’s heart-shaped, vibrant red leaves framed by an emerald green edge are a fantastic plant for dressing up your patio. Planted in a classic alabaster wash container, this container garden will elevate your outdoor living space with style. Ruffling leaves that mound over the top of the neutral palette of the container are heat tolerant and simply gorgeous all summer long.

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\"Alabaster-Caladium-Florida-Cardinal_2G3A6429.jpg\"

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\nWhat’s Included in Your Kit \n

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Your kit includes a bag of soil, 4 caladium bulbs, the decorative pot, a lid and a small plastic bag containing 4 rubber plugs.

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\"Tan_FloridaCardinal_309786-2b.jpg\"

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Step 1: Save the Base Plugs

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This kit includes a bag of four rubber base plugs. To install, press firmly on the top of the plug until the wider top is flush against the base of the pot. Install the base plugs when starting your plants indoors or when moving inside to store for the winter. When the plugs are removed for outdoor use, this provides adequate drainage for your soil. When indoors, these plugs prevent a leaking mess.

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Step 2: Arrange Bulbs & Soil

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Fill the container with 2/3 of the soil included in your kit. Arrange the caladium bulbs in a circle inside the container, all spaced evenly. Cover the bulbs with the remaining soil so that they are 2” below the surface of the soil.

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Step 3: Watering

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Water lightly upon first planting. Once established, when rooted and stem shoots are above the soil line, water once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. While they are heat tolerant, caladiums planted in containers tend to dry out faster than planted in the garden.

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Water thoroughly when the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. To check soil, place a finger 1” below the soil’s surface to feel for moisture. If your foliage turns brown, you may be overwatering.

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Step 4: After Care

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Caladiums grow best in part sun to shade, but will tolerate some sunlight throughout the day. Place your container in a location where it receives 4-6 hours of sunlight each day. If you start to see holes with brown edges appearing on the leaves, simply move your container to a less sunny location.

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After planting, it may take 2 weeks or more for the first shoots to appear. Once this happens, the plants grow quickly. Caladiums will bloom from summer through fall. In warm climates where they are perennial, the plants typically flower earlier in the summer.

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\"Caladium-Carolyn-Whorton--Florida-Cardinal--White-Christmas_2G3A9411.jpg\"

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Step 5: Caring for Caladiums After They Bloom

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During the growing season, caladiums appreciate a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer. This is especially important when they are grown in containers.

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In climates where caladiums are winter hardy (zones 8-10), the bulbs may be left in the ground to bloom again the next summer. In cooler areas (zones 3-7), caladiums are treated as annuals and planted new each year. Alternatively, the bulbs may be overwintered indoors, though flower production may be diminished the second year. 

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Step 6: How to Winterize Your Bulbs

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Fertilizing your container garden throughout the growing season gives them a better base for overwintering. At the end of the blooming season, but before the first frost around mid-late fall, dig up the bulbs and trim off the foliage, leaving an inch or two of stem attached. Let the bulbs cure in a warm, dry place for two weeks and then put them into a cardboard (not plastic) box with barely damp peat moss or sawdust. Store the box in a dark place at 50-60°F. Check once or twice during the winter to make sure the bulbs are not too moist (rotting) or too dry (shriveling). Replant in spring. 

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":29191860465563,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/29191860465563.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/29191860465563-All-About-Hymenocallis-Planning-Planting-and-Aftercare","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":0,"vote_count":0,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2024-09-13T15:03:26Z","updated_at":"2024-09-13T15:12:15Z","name":"All About Hymenocallis- Planning, Planting, and Aftercare","title":"All About Hymenocallis- Planning, Planting, and Aftercare","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2024-09-13T15:12:13Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Hymenocallis

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These fragrant, exotic-looking flowers are relatives of the amaryllis. The bulbs are winter hardy perennials in zones 8-10. In cooler areas, hymenocallis may be treated as an annual or the bulbs may be brought indoors for the winter. Hymenocallis is known by many different names, which include Ismene, spider lily, Peruvian daffodil and summer daffodil.

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What to Know About Hymenocallis

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The flowers of hymenocallis resemble daffodils, with a central cup surrounded by petals that are typically much narrower and longer than those of a daffodil. The color of the flowers is usually white, though some are cream or yellow. The blossoms are intensely fragrant, especially after dark.

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Hymenocallis have long, strappy leaves, similar to those of an amaryllis. The foliage typically emerges first, followed by the flower stalk with a cluster of 3 to 5 buds. Overall height including the flowers is about 2’ tall.

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\"all-about-hymenocallis1.jpg\"

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How to Plant Hymenocallis

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In areas where the bulbs are hardy (zones 8-10), they may be planted directly into the garden. Choose a sunny or mostly sunny spot that provides some shelter from wind. Most importantly, make sure the soil is very well drained. Hymenocallis need moisture in the spring, but the soil should be quite dry during summer, fall and winter.

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In colder areas, hymenocallis are usually grown in pots. This makes it easier to provide the well-drained growing conditions they need. You can also simply bring the pots indoors for the winter. Choose a container that will provide ample root space. Like amaryllis, the bulbs produce lots of fleshy roots that need plenty of room to expand. Plant 1 bulb per 8\" diameter pot or 3 bulbs in a 15\" diameter pot.

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When planting, the base of the bulb's neck should be even with the soil surface. Water sparingly until the bulbs sprout.

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\"all-about-hymenocallis2.jpg\"

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How to Care for Hymenocallis

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Once the bulbs have sprouted and are in active growth, water them as often as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. If you live in a rainy climate, make sure the soil does not become water-logged. Fertilize monthly. After the flowers have faded, you may either discard the bulbs or save them for next year.

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If you want to save the bulbs, remove the flower stalk after the flowers have faded. Allow the leaves to continue growing and fertilize monthly. Stop watering when the leaves begin to yellow. If the bulbs are in pots, move them to a place where the soil will stay dry.

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In zones 3-7 the bulbs need to be brought indoors before the first frost. Put them in a cool place (55-60°F) for the winter and keep the soil dry. When spring comes, check to see if the bulbs are root-bound. If so, transplant to a larger pot. Move the pot outdoors after all danger of frost.

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\"all-about-hymenocallis3.jpg\"

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Discovering the Magic of Blue Flowers

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Gardeners find it hard to resist the allure of blue flowers. In the natural world, blue is an usual flower color and this is surely one of the reasons we find blue flowers so appealing. But there’s more to the power of blue than novelty. Read on to learn how you can put this heavenly hue to work in your garden.

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The Personality of Blue

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From lapis lazuli to ultramarine, cobalt to cerulean, blue has long had a special role in art, jewelry and textiles. Traditionally, the color blue has been used to represent qualities of the sublime such as truth, humility, purity, faithfulness, and heaven. In contemporary times, blue is also associated with harmony, confidence, infinity and the imagination.

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Though blue flowers are uncommon, the color blue is a constant in the landscape. On a sunny day, there’s a dome of blue sky over our heads. Oceans, lakes, ponds, rivers, streams and even glaciers reflect the sky and echo it in variations of blue. Distant mountains draw us with their hazy blue aura.

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While red and yellow are warm colors, blue has a low “color temperature.” We experience blue hues as cool and find them calming, soothing and relaxing. In the garden, blue flowers have another interesting quality: they seem to recede from us. This can be used to increase the sense of openness and expansion in your garden.

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Understanding Blue in the Color Wheel

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On the color wheel, red, yellow and blue form a powerful triad. Each of these primary colors is pure and distinct, as different from each other as can be. This is why there’s no better way to accentuate the color blue than to place it near red or yellow.

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To see how well this can work, consider the paintings of Johannes Vermeer, among the most admired of all Dutch artists. Vermeer’s use of primary colors was masterful – especially his carefully composed combinations of blue and yellow. When working to incorporate blue flowers into your garden, it helps to think like a painter. Use this precious hue with intention -- to delight the eye and soothe the soul.

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Tips for Using Blue in a Flower Garden

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Vermeer was precise and sparing in his use of red, yellow and blue. He knew that too much of a primary color can be tiring on the eyes. In most of Vermeer's paintings the primary colors appear in a muted form as tints (diluted with white) or shades (diluted with black).

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Gardens call for the same restrained approach. As a general rule, it's best to use blue flowers as accents. Nature makes this easy, because so few flowers are a pure, true blue. More commonly they are tints or shades of blue.

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Blue Can Be Daring or Demure

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In the late 20th century, the color trend in gardens was pastels. Today, gardeners are often drawn to more intense colors and bolder combinations. If these bold, dramatic colors appeal to you, experiment by pairing blue with its complementary color, orange. You'll achieve a look that’s both modern and electrifying.

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British garden designer Gertrude Jekyll wrote “blues will be more telling – more purely blue – by the juxtaposition of rightly placed complementary color.” You could take a seasonal approach to these pairings. In spring you could plant blue grape hyacinths (muscari armeniacum) with orange Sun Loving Tulips. Fill a summer container with Salvia patens and orange tithonia. In fall, pair blue asters with orange mums.

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In her book, Color in the Flower Garden, Gertrude Jekyll included plans for a blue garden, with recommendations for specific types of plants and their placement. She excluded flowers with a purple-blue hue, specifying only pure blues accompanied by white and pale yellow. This makes for a narrow list of plant choices, but the effect would surely be stunning.
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Another way to preserve and accentuate the restive nature of blue is to pair it with silver or grey foliage. These cool, neutral colors make pure blues look more brilliant. They also reflect just a hint of blue to create a harmonious color bridge.

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Combining blue with an analogous color is yet another option. Analogous colors are adjacent to each other on the color wheel and have a pleasing visual harmony. Purple and blue are analogous colors and you can count on them to work well together.

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Some of the Best Blue Flowers for Gardens

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Annuals and Tender Perennials with Blue Flowers: Agapanthus, Borage, Lobelia, Morning Glory, Nigella, Phacelia, Plumbago, Salvia

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Perennials with Blue Flowers: Agapanthus, Amsonia, Brunnera, Campanula, Clematis, Delphinium, Echinops, Eryngium, Gentian, Geranium. Iris, Linum, Meconopsis, Mertensia, Myosotis, Periwinkle, Phlox, Platycodon, Pulmonaria, Rosemary, Salvia, Viola

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Bulbs with Blue Flowers: Camassia, Chionodoxa, Hyacinth, Muscari, Pushkinia, Scilla

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Shrubs with Blue Flowers: Ceanothus, Hydrangea, Lilac, Wisteria

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Foliage with a Blue Hue: Agave, Blue oat grass, Euphorbia, Festuca glauca, Fothergilla, Hosta, Juniper, Lavender, Sedum

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Blue Color Accents for Your Garden

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One of the best ways to introduce blue into your garden is with paint. Repainting an arbor, trellis or tuteur; a door, gate or fence; a bench or chair can give your garden a big lift. Add a splash of blue by accessorizing your garden with a blue-glazed pot or a gazing ball. Even a blue watering can!

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Kniphofia

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The brilliant, torch-like flowers of kniphofia are an exciting addition to any garden. These plants are sturdy, vigorous and trouble-free as long as you grow them in in loose, well-drained soil and full sun. They are winter hardy in zones 6-9, though with ideal growing conditions and a winter mulch, they can also survive in zone 5.

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Plan for Success

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Kniphofia are native to South Africa and are well-adapted to hot climates. Once established, the plants are relatively drought tolerant, although they grow best with consistent moisture – especially during hot or dry spells.

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Kniphofia are perennials and not usually recommended for containers. The plants have a clumping habit and over time they can become quite large. Choose a planting location where they will have an opportunity to bulk up.

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\"all-about-kniphofia1.jpg\"

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How to Plant Kniphofia 

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When planting kniphofia, position the crown (where roots meet stem) at or just slightly below the soil line. If the crown is planted too deeply it will be vulnerable to rot.

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After planting, water well to settle the soil around the roots. If the soil is dry, water weekly for the first two months until the plant is able to establish new roots.

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What to Expect

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Kniphofia flowers open slowly from the bottom up and last for several weeks. Their bright color attracts hummingbirds. They are also good cut flowers with a long vase life.

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After the blossoms have faded, cut off the stems near the base of the plant. This may encourage another round of flowers. Keeping the foliage strong and healthy will encourage the plant will produce as many flowers as possible. In cold areas, the leaves will die back to the ground in winter. In warm areas they may stay green year-round.

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Good drainage is essential for kniphofia because the crown of the plant is susceptible to rot – especially during the winter months. Otherwise they are disease-free. In areas with high humidity or frequent rain, watch for slugs and snails, which can damage the foliage.

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Aftercare

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In early spring, pull away any dead leaves and cut the remaining foliage back to 3”. The best time to divide kniphofia is early spring. Use a sharp spade to slice down through the crown to cut away fist-sized clumps for transplanting.

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\"all-about-kniphofia4.jpg\"

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Heleniums

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Heleniums are colorful, easy-to-grow perennials that flower in late summer. Their daisy-like blossoms measure 1 to 2” across and have prominent button-like centers. The flowers bloom in warm, autumnal colors such as brick red, golden yellow, coppery gold and rusty orange.

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What to Know About Heleniums

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Heleniums are in the aster family. They are native to North and South America, but most garden varieties are hybrids. Common names for this plant include Helen’s flower and sneezeweed (though heleniums are not allergy-inducing!). The plants grow in clumps and have an upright habit with lance-shaped leaves. Overall heights are typically 30-48” tall.

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Helenium are disease resistant, pest resistant and usually avoided by deer and rabbits. The blossoms attract bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects. They are also excellent cut flowers.

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Plan for Success

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Sun and Shade: In the wild, heleniums grow in damp meadows and at the edge of woodlands. In gardens, they should be planted in full sun.

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Soil Conditions: Heleniums prefer fertile soil with a good amount of organic matter. The soil should be well drained, yet the plants need consistent moisture throughout the growing season and are not suitable for dry climates.

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Hardiness: Hardiness varies, but most cultivars are winter hardy in zones 3 to 8.

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Where to Plant Heleniums

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Heleniums are an excellent addition to mixed perennial borders as well as informal, naturalized plantings. They are a must for butterfly gardens because the flowers are an important source of late season pollen and nectar. Heleniums prefer soil that stays relatively moist, so they are often included in rain gardens. 

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Position the plants in the middle or back of a flower bed, keeping in mind their mature height of 3 to 4 feet. Good companions for heleniums include purple asters, monarda, agastache, goldenrod, echinacea, rudbeckia, Joe Pye weed, Russian sage, dahlias and ornamental grasses.

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How to Grow Heleniums

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Container-grown helenium may be planted anytime between spring and fall. Bare root helenium should be planted in early spring. If the weather is dry, water the plants regularly for the first month to help them establish new roots. Newly-planted perennials usually flower the first year, but will take at least one full growing season to mature.

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In areas that get plenty of summer rainfall, heleniums may grow up to 4 feet tall and need to be staked. If your plants regularly grow taller than you’d like, pinch back the new growth in late spring. This will delay the flowers by about a week, but the overall plants will be stockier and self-supporting.

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Caring for Heleniums After They Bloom 

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Deadheading faded flowers will keep the plants looking neat and encourage reblooming.

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Heleniums have shallow roots, and if growing well, they will benefit from being divided every 3 to 5 years. You’ll know it is time to divide if flowering decreases and/or the plants seem weakened. The best time to divide heleniums is early spring.

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\"all-about-heleniums5.jpg\"

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Perennials

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Perennials are plants that die back in the fall and regrow from the same roots the following spring. There are hundreds of different types of perennials to choose from. The key to success is choosing perennials that are well-suited to the growing conditions in your yard.

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What to Know About Perennials

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Winter hardiness is the first and most important consideration when choosing perennials. All perennials have a hardiness rating that indicates the coldest winter temperature they will tolerate. Know your hardiness zone.

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Light is another critical factor. Some perennials need full sun while others prefer shade. When plants do not get enough light, they are unable to grow and bloom properly. On the other hand, shade loving plants can be damaged by too much sun. The quality and amount of sunlight available in your yard changes during the day as well as during the growing season. Be aware of how much sun is available in different parts of your yard and locate plants accordingly.

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While some perennials will grow in almost any type of soil, others are quite particular. Some need rich soil and consistent moisture. Others prefer sharply drained, low nutrient soil and little moisture. Over time, you can adjust the soil in your yard, but it’s best to start with plants that will be happy with the existing growing conditions.

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Most gardeners want to see a continuous display of blooms from early summer through fall. This can be tricky to achieve. Perennials such as peonies, Oriental poppies, and iris bloom for just two or three weeks in early summer. Others, such as Russian sage, asters and mums don’t start blooming until late summer. To get a succession of blooms, it’s important to include plants that flower at different times during the season.

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Plant size is yet another factor. Some perennials have a low, creeping habit, while others can reach heights of 5 or 6 feet. When grouping different types of plants, consider their natural growth habit and how they display their flowers. That said, be prepared to move your plants around once you get to know them. Even very experienced gardeners relocate plants to achieve more pleasing compositions.

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Foliage texture and flower color are also important elements. Remember that most perennials are only in bloom for part of the growing season, so interesting foliage is a big bonus. Experimenting with color and other elements of garden design can be a life-long adventure!

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How to Plant Perennials

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Prepare the soil well before you plant. This is the time to loosen the soil and improve its texture by adding organic matter such as compost and leaf mold. You may also wish to add some all-purpose granular fertilizer (follow package directions for application rate).

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Dig a hole that will easily accommodate the plant’s entire root system. Proper planting depth can vary, so be sure to follow any plant-specific instructions. Otherwise, position the crown of the plant (where roots meet stem) at or just barely under the natural soil level.

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Refill the hole and water deeply to settle the roots into the soil. Depending on the type of plant and the growing conditions, it may be weeks or months before the plant develops a strong root system that can absorb adequate moisture from the soil. Until then, you’ll need to water deeply once per week or whenever the soil is dry.

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\"img-9761a.jpg\" 

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How to Care for Perennials

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Depending where you live and what types of plants you are growing, established perennials can often survive without supplemental watering. If you do need to water, it’s best to water deeply and less frequently – ideally with soaker hose or drip irrigation.

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Most perennials do not require an annual application of fertilizer. Depending on the quality and fertility of your soil, top dressing with a couple inches of compost may provide all the nutrients needed. An organic mulch such as shredded leaves or leaf mold will provide valuable plant nutrients and gradually improve soil texture.

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Taking time to remove spent flowers (deadheading) has several advantages. It keeps gardens looking neater and also helps plants conserve energy by preventing them from making seeds.

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Be aware that the name “perennial” can be misleading. The natural lifespan of plants varies from one species to another. Some live for generations (peonies), while others (delphinium and heuchera) may need to be replaced every 3-4 years. If flower production declines and the plant begins to look weak, digging and dividing is often a good way to rejuvenate it.

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Your Guide to Planning, Planting and Growing Iris

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Bearded irises are among the most beautiful flowers a gardener can grow. Their late spring and early summer blooms are elegant and regal, their sweet fragrance is reminiscent of grape soda or root beer, and their ability to multiply rapidly has made them the ultimate “pass-along” plant.

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Ask a gardener where they acquired their lovely irises and you may hear tales of grandma’s colorful cottage garden, a neighbors who shared handfuls of rhizomes over the garden gate, or a prized collection dug up and moved from a past home. Read on to learn about growing these beautiful, easy-care perennials.

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\"dividingbeardediris7.jpg\"

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Plan for Success 

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Bearded iris (sometimes known as German iris) grow from shallow, fleshy roots called rhizomes. Their distinctive flowers have upright petals called \"standards\" and cascading petals called \"falls\". Running down the center of each fall is a “beard” that resembles a furry caterpillar. The leaves of bearded iris are flattened and sword-like, and the plants grow to varying heights. Dwarf varieties may stand just a few inches tall, while tall varieties can reach 3 feet or more.

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Sun or Shade: Iris flower best in full sun and require a minimum of 6 hours of sun to produce a good show of flowers. 

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Zone: Bearded iris are winter hardy in zones 3-9.

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Soil: Bearded iris prefer growing in neutral to slightly acidic soil that is loose and well-drained. Planting them in heavy, poorly drained soil can invite a number of disease problems.

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When to Plant: The best time to plant bearded iris rhizomes is late summer or early fall when the plants are dormant. New plants should have at least 6 weeks to develop a strong root system before the first hard frost. Container-grown iris may be planted any time during the growing season.

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\"dividingbeardediris2.jpg\"

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Where to Plant Bearded Iris

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Perennial Gardens  Bearded iris are classic plants for perennial gardens. They bloom in early summer at the same time as roses, peonies, poppies, lupines and dianthus. Even when the plants are not in bloom, the upright foliage adds a strong vertical accent. Just be careful not to crowd the plants as this can deprive them of sunlight and keep the soil too moist.

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Rock Gardens and Dry Areas  Bearded iris need moisture in the spring, but once they finish flowering, the plants should be kept as dry as possible. Coarse, fast-draining soil is ideal for bearded iris. Consider planting them at the edge of a sidewalk or in a poor, gravely area.

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Cutting Gardens Bearded iris are outstanding cut flowers. The blossoms last for only a day or two, but each stem has multiple buds and will provide at least a week of flowers.

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\"dividingbeardediris6.jpg\"

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How to Plant Bearded Iris

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Iris rhizomes should be planted so they are at or just slightly below the soil surface. After planting, the very top of the rhizome should still be visible. Planting too deeply can cause the rhizomes to rot and will reduce flower production.

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Begin by loosening the soil 12” deep. Mix in several handfuls of compost and some all-purpose granular fertilizer (follow package directions). Rhizomes should be spaced 12-24” apart. The tighter the spacing, the sooner the plants will grow together and need to be divided. If you want your new iris bed to look abundant right from the start, plant the rhizomes just 12” apart. If you want to divide less often, use the wider spacing.

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For each plant, dig a shallow hole and slightly mound the soil in the center. Position the rhizome on top of the soil mound and spread out the roots on either side. Firm the soil around the roots, remembering to leave the top of the rhizome slightly exposed. In very hot climates, it’s OK to cover the rhizome with up to 1 inch of soil to protect it from extreme heat. Water as needed to settle the roots. Newly planted bearded iris should receive a consistent supply of moisture until they are well established. This may take a month or more. Once the weather turns cold, keep the soil as dry as possible. Bearded iris should not be mulched, but it is important to keep the area free of weeds.

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\"dividingbeardediris4.jpg\"

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Tips for Growing Bearded Iris

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Moisture. Bearded iris should get a consistent supply of moisture from early spring until they finish flowering. From midsummer through fall and winter, the soil should stay relatively dry. Take note of this if you have an irrigation system. Too much moisture is at the root of most disease and pest problems. It is also important to avoid crowding the plants. Make sure there is good air circulation around the foliage.

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Fertilizer. Iris begin active growth in very early spring. This is the ideal time to apply a granular all-purpose fertilizer. You may also distribute a shovelful of compost around the rhizomes, making sure not to cover them completely.

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Dividing. Bearded iris should be divided every 3-5 years to maintain good health and abundant flowering. The best time to do this is mid-summer, about a month after the flowers have finished blooming. Use scissors to cut the foliage back to one-third its original height. Dig out the clumps and put them on a tarp. Gently separate healthy new rhizomes from the older, less-productive rhizomes that are located toward the center of the clump. Discard any rhizomes with holes (from insect damage, see Iris Borer, below) or soft spots. When dividing large rhizomes, make sure each section has at least one set of 3 to 4 leaves. Replant only the healthiest, most vigorous groups of rhizomes, allowing about 10-12\" of space between the clumps.

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Iris Borer. In the eastern US, the iris borer attacks all types of iris. Though this pest may not kill the plant, it can cause streaked or spotted leaves and make the rhizomes mushy. The borer is a pinkish caterpillar that burrows into the leaves and then starts moving down into the root zone. As the caterpillars feed on the rhizomes, the plants are exposed to a host of diseases including bacterial soft rot and leaf spot. To avoid iris borer, trim back all foliage in the fall after the first heavy frost. Destroying the foliage will eliminate many of next year’s eggs. When dividing plants, examine the rhizomes for signs of iris borer damage and discard any affected parts.

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\"dividingbeardediris5.jpg\"

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Enjoy a Lifetime of Beautiful Blooms

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It’s easy to see why bearded irises are considered the ultimate “pass-along” plants. Their ability to multiply and thrive for generations is truly unmatched. Bearded irises give us elegant blooms, rich fragrance, and timeless beauty. They also give us stories to treasure among family, friends, and neighbors.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":24493907436827,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/24493907436827.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/24493907436827-All-About-Iris-Reticulata-Planning-Planting-and-Aftercare","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":0,"vote_count":0,"section_id":115000710953,"created_at":"2024-04-04T13:38:26Z","updated_at":"2024-04-04T13:45:16Z","name":"All About Iris Reticulata- Planning, Planting, and Aftercare","title":"All About Iris Reticulata- Planning, Planting, and Aftercare","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2024-04-04T13:45:12Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Iris Reticulata

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Iris reticulata is one of the earliest flowers of spring, blooming at the same time as snowdrops, chionodoxa and snow crocuses. Commonly known as reticulated iris, the plants have petite, 4 to 6\" tall flowers and grassy foliage.

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How to Grow Iris Reticulata

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Iris reticulata grows wild in the cold and dry mountains of Turkey, Iraq, Iran and Russia. The bulbs need a consistent supply of moisture during the spring, but should stay quite dry during summer, autumn and winter. They are likely to rot in heavy or wet soil.

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Rock gardens and gravel gardens are ideal planting locations for these bulbs. Also consider fast-draining areas beside a front walk or stone patio. Another option is to grow the bulbs in an elevated alpine trough or in pots.

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\"all-about-iris-reticulata1.jpg\"

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How to Plant Iris Reticulata

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The bulbs of iris reticulata are about the size of a nickel and shaped like teardrops. Plant them 4\" deep and 3\" apart, with the pointed end up. 

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Iris reticulata need well drained soil, and will flower best in full sun, though they can also be grow in partial shade. The plants are both deer resistant and drought tolerant.

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When growing conditions are suitable, iris reticulata bulbs can naturalize and multiply. To ensure an abundant display of flowers, it's best to plant fresh bulbs every fall. Bulbs are available HERE for shipping from September through November.

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\"all-about-iris-reticulata2.jpg\"

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Aftercare for Iris Reticulata

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After the plants finish blooming, the foliage quickly fades away. The bulbs are then dormant until the next spring.

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When iris reticulata bulbs are happy where they are growing, they will multiply and it's possible for them to become overcrowded. If this happens, the quality of the flowers may begin to suffer. To divide the bulbs, dig them up in late summer and split them apart. Put about half the number back in the same area and find other places to plant the rest.

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\"all-about-iris-reticulata3.jpg\"

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","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":24474107742875,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/24474107742875.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/24474107742875-How-to-Grow-Anemones-in-Cold-Climates","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":1,"vote_count":1,"section_id":115000710953,"created_at":"2024-04-03T19:57:24Z","updated_at":"2024-04-03T19:57:31Z","name":"How to Grow Anemones in Cold Climates","title":"How to Grow Anemones in Cold Climates","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2024-04-03T19:57:31Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Anemone Growing Tips for Zones 4-6

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Anemones possess a delicate beauty that’s unmatched by other spring flowers. They have tissue paper petals that flutter in the breeze, and their captivating centers will draw you in for a closer look. The anemone’s finely cut foliage is also alluring. It stays low to the ground, and the stems are bare except for a collar of foliage under the flower head. If you live in a cold climate and want to add these enchanting blooms to your spring garden, here are the steps needed to be successful. 

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When to Plant Anemones 

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Gardeners in zones 7 and warmer can plant anemone corms in the fall. However, gardeners in zones 6 and colder should plant anemones in the late winter or very early spring.  Ideally, they should be planted at the same time as your hardy annuals such as nigella and larkspur. For a late winter planting, begin the soaking and pre-sprouting process approximately 8 weeks before your last expected frost. This way, the pre-sprouted corms will be ready to transplant into the garden 6 weeks before the last frost.

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\"anemonedry.jpeg\"

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\nStep 1: Soak Anemone Corms 

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Anemone corms are shipped in a dry and dormant state and may be stored this way for many months. It’s best to purchase corms in the fall so you can wake them up at the proper time for your location. Here in zone 6b, I purchase fall corms and store them in my basement until February. Storage conditions should be dark, dry, and roughly room temperature.

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Start by soaking the dry anemone corms in a bucket of room temperature water for 4 hours. Change the water once every hour to keep it fresh. Alternatively, you can allow a constant gentle stream of water to run into the bucket. After 4 hours you’ll notice that the corms have expanded slightly in size. They will still look wrinkly and will not expand as much as ranunculus corms. This is normal.   

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\"anemonesoaked.jpeg\"

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\nStep 2: Pre-Sprout Anemone Corms  

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Soaking anemone corms before planting is necessary, but pre-sprouting them is optional. The corms will grow and bloom just fine if you plant them immediately after soaking. Pre-sprouting gives the plants a jump start on the growing season. Similar to starting seeds indoors vs. direct seeding them into the garden.

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To pre-sprout anemone corms, fill a watertight, flat bottom tray with 2 inches of lightly moistened, high quality potting soil. Place the soaked corms onto the soil with the pointy side down. (If you can’t decide which part of the corm is pointy, don’t worry about it.) Cover the corms with an inch of lightly moistened potting soil. You can place the corms closely together since they will only be in this tray for a few weeks. 

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Place the tray in a cool, dark place for 2-3 weeks. The ideal temperature for pre-sprouting is about 50°F. An unheated basement or cool closet usually works well. 

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Keep the soil slightly moist and check the corms often. Immediately discard any that are rotten or moldy. Mold and rot occur when the environment is too humid or the soil is too wet. If the corms fail to develop roots after 2-3 weeks, the soil is likely too dry, or the area is too hot.  

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Within 2-3 weeks, the corms should have developed roots and small white shoots. This is when they should be planted out into the garden.

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\"anemonesprout.jpeg\" 

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\nStep 3: Planting Anemones Outside 

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Anemones grow best in full to part sun and rich, well-draining soil. Prior to planting, enrich the soil by incorporating several inches of compost. Then plant the pre-sprouted corms 2” deep and 6” apart.  

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As the anemones grow, keep a close watch on the weather forecast. If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the planting area with hoops and frost cloth. As soon as temperatures rise above freezing, remove the frost cloth so it doesn’t get too hot under the tunnel. Anemones prefer cool nights at 45-55° F, and sunny days at 60-70° F.  

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Keep the area weed free and water as needed to keep the soil moist. Anemones usually begin blooming about 12 weeks after planting and continue flowering until hot weather causes them to go dormant.  

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\"anemoneharvest.jpg\"

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\nHarvesting Anemone Flowers 

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To get the longest vase life, harvest anemone flowers before the petals are fully open. As anemones age, the distance between the leaf collar and flower widens.  Ideally, the leaf collar should be one half to three-quarters of an inch below the flower head. If you harvest anemones when the leaf collar is still touching the flower head, the blossom may never open. If you wait until the flower is fully open and showing pollen, the vase life will only be a few days.

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\"anemoneharveststage.png\"

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Picked at the correct stage, anemones should last 7-10 days in the vase. It’s common for the stems to be relatively short at the start of the season and gradually get longer. Note that some varieties of anemones are naturally short. If you are growing anemones to cut for yourself or to sell, purchase a variety that’s naturally quite tall, such as Jerusalem, Galilee, Meron, Carmel, Mistral, or Marianne.

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\"anemone-de-caen-mr-fokker-and-bearded-iris-persian-berry-in-arrangement-dsc-0933.jpg\"

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\nDigging Anemone Corms 

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In hardiness zones 7 and warmer, anemone corms can be left in the ground to perennialize. Gardeners in zone 6 may have varying degrees of success getting anemones to survive the winter. To be safe, if you live in zones 6 and colder, you should dig the corms and store them inside over the winter.

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Anemone corms should be dug after the heat of summer has turned the leaves yellow. Once this occurs, you can remove the foliage, dig up the corms, and let them dry for about 2 days. Then store the corms in mesh bags in a dark, dry, room temperature location over the winter. In the late winter or early spring start the process again. 

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":24473832101659,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/24473832101659.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/24473832101659-All-About-Leucojum-Planning-Planting-and-Aftercare","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":0,"vote_count":0,"section_id":115000710953,"created_at":"2024-04-03T19:49:45Z","updated_at":"2024-04-04T13:45:39Z","name":"All About Leucojum - Planning, Planting, and Aftercare","title":"All About Leucojum - Planning, Planting, and Aftercare","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2024-04-04T13:45:32Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

Your Guide to Planning, Planting, and Growing Leucojum

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Leucojum, also known as summer snowflake, is a carefree and adaptable spring-blooming bulb. Though the flowers and foliage are similar to snowdrops, leucojum grows at least twice as tall and blooms about two months later, usually just after the daffodils. The pure white, bell-shaped flowers are decorated with lime green accents and dangle in clusters from arching stems. The bulbs are reliably perennial, and you can expect them to bloom every spring for years to come.

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\"all-about-leucojom1.jpg\"

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Plan for Success 

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Sun and Shade: Leucojum will grow and bloom in sun or partial shade.

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Hardiness Zone: The bulbs are winter hardy in growing zones 4-8.

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Soil Conditions: Leucojum is not fussy about soil conditions and will tolerate acidic, neutral or alkaline soils. The bulbs need moisture early in the growing season, but when they are dormant during the summer months, the soil can be lightly moist or quite dry. Avoid soggy soil.

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\"all-about-leucojom2.jpg\"

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Where to Plant Leucojum

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In the wild, leucojum grows at the edge of woodlands where the soil is moist and the plants are lightly shaded. This makes it well-suited to shade gardens and woodland gardens, as well as wildflower meadows.

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Over time, leucojum bulbs will form a grassy clump of foliage that stands about 18” tall. In flower gardens, leucojum is a long-lived, well-behaved plant and makes an ideal companion for other shade lovers such as pulmonaria, trillium, primroses and bleeding heart.

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\"all-about-leucojom3.jpg\"

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How to Plant Leucojum

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When to Plant: Plant the bulbs in fall, any time before the ground freezes, between late September and the end of November.

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Depth and Spacing: Plant the bulbs 5 to 6” deep and 5 to 6” apart on center.

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Planting Tips: To get the most natural look, plant leucojum in groups of 6 to 10 bulbs. These long-lived perennials may take a couple years to bulk up, but once they do, you'll enjoy flowers every spring for years to come.

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\"all-about-leucojom4.jpg\"

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What to Expect in Spring

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Leucojum blooms for 2-3 weeks in mid to late spring, at approximately the same time as most tulips.

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Once established, the plants are long-lived and dislike being moved. If a clump gets too large for the space, dig up the bulbs in early summer after the foliage has turned yellow. Divide and replant.

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Leucojum grows more rapidly in warm climates and may spread itself around. This is usually considered a good thing.

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\"all-about-leucojom5.jpg\"

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Caring for Leucojum After They Flower

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Like other spring-blooming bulbs, these plants use their foliage to produce energy for next year's flowers. Once the plant has finished blooming, you may cut off the spent flowers and stems, though it’s not necessary. Allow the foliage to continue growing until it withers and fades away, which usually happens about 6 weeks after flowering.

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Mulching around the plants with compost will feed the bulbs, improve the soil, and help control weeds.

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\"all-about-leucojom6.jpg\"

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","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":19895621078427,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/19895621078427.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/19895621078427-How-to-Grow-Dahlias-In-Containers","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":2,"vote_count":2,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2023-10-26T19:40:35Z","updated_at":"2025-07-03T16:20:51Z","name":"How to Grow Dahlias In Containers","title":"How to Grow Dahlias In Containers","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-07-03T16:20:51Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

How to Grow Dahlias In Containers

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Dahlias are heat loving plants that grow best in warm soil. Growing these flowers in
containers is a great way to give them the extra warmth they need to put on a spectacular
show. Container gardens also make it easy to enjoy dahlia flowers almost anywhere
around your home. Decorative border dahlias have the blooming power of full size
dahlias, but with a compact size makes them a great choice for containers. This article will
familiarize you with what’s in your kit, how to plant them and how to care for them for the
best results.

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What’s Included in Your Kit

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Your kit includes a bag of soil, 1 dahlia tuber, the decorative pot, a lid and a small
plastic bag containing 3 rubber plugs.

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Step 1: Save the Base Plugs

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Your container comes with a bag containing three rubber plugs. Install the plugs when
starting your plants indoors or when moving inside to store for the winter. When the plugs
are removed for outdoor use, this provides adequate drainage for your soil. When indoors,
these plugs prevent a leaking mess.

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To install, press firmly on the top of the plug until the wider top is flush against the
bottom of the pot.

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Step 2: Arrange Bulbs & Soil

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Fill the container with about 2/3 of the soil. Place your dahlia with the long
tubers (bottom) down and short stem (top) facing up.

\n

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Backfill the soil on top of the dahlia tuber. The tuber should be about 1” below the soil
surface.

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Step 3: Watering Your Dahlias

\n

Water lightly after planting until you see the sprouts above the soil level, usually about
once per week. Do not overwater as keeping the soil too wet will result in a rotting
tuber.

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Soil should feel somewhere between “fresh out of the bag” and moist. Not saturated or
dry like sawdust. To check soil place a finger 1” below the soil’s surface to feel for
moisture. Once the dahlia has sprouted above the soil, water to keep the soil moist to
the touch or as often as you would any other container plants.

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Step 4: After Care

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Dahlias bloom best in full sun, so choose a sunny spot. Once your dahlias are 8-10\" tall,
begin fertilizing them with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks. To
promote plenty of blooms and strong plants you can use a technique for dahlias called
“Pinching”.

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Step 5: The Value of Pinching Dahlias

\n

Pinching or \"topping\" young dahlias will give you stronger, bushier plants with more
flowers. Pinching temporarily redirects the plant's energy toward producing stems and
leaves rather than buds. It will take an extra week or two to get flowers, but it's
definitely worth the wait.

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When to Do It. The best time to pinch is when the plant is about 10\" tall and has at
least 4 sets of leaves on the center stalk. At this stage it is growing rapidly and will
quickly recover from being pinched.

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How to Do It. Locate the upper-most sprout on the main stem (see below) and snip it
off with your fingers or scissors. Take care not to tear the stem or damage the nearby
leaves. See the image below.

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Why to Do It. Removing the plant's terminal bud will stimulate lateral buds (lower on
the stem) to develop into new stems. Where the sprout was removed, the plant will
generate two shoots rather than one.

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\n

 

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Step 6: Controlling Insects and Disease

\n

Aphids are a popular pest that likes to attack dahlias. Ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and
lacewings will all attack aphids, so avoiding chemical pesticides is beneficial to your
dahlias. Using a strong stream of cold water can help wash aphids off the plants.
Insecticidal soap can also help.

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Removing spent blooms and keeping your dahlias clean is the best way to prevent any
diseases that would shorten your dahlia’s bloom-span.

\n

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Step 7: Deadhead Regularly

\n

As mentioned above, removing spent blooms is a great way to prevent any dahlia
diseases, but deadheading also encourages new blooms to continue all the way up to
the first frost. Simply use your fingers or gardening scissors to clip off the flowers that
are browning or looking tired.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":19895336488731,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/19895336488731.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/19895336488731-How-to-Grow-Lilies-In-Containers","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":1,"vote_count":1,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2023-10-26T19:32:57Z","updated_at":"2024-02-23T13:59:55Z","name":"How to Grow Lilies In Containers","title":"How to Grow Lilies In Containers","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2024-02-23T13:59:51Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

How to Grow Lilies In Containers

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Having your own supply of potted lilies may be a luxury, but you'll soon come to see it as
a necessity. Need to perk up a tired perennial garden or replace a plant that failed? Grab
a pot of lilies for an instant makeover. Expecting company or just want to add some excitement                  (and fragrance!) to your entry way? Arrange a few pots near the front door and fill them with lilies.

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\nWhat’s Included in Your Kit\n

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Your kit includes a bag of soil, 5 lily bulbs, the decorative pot, a lid and a small plastic
bag containing 3 rubber plugs.

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Step 1: Save the Base Plugs

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Your container comes with a bag containing three rubber plugs. Install the plugs when
starting your plants indoors or when moving inside to store for the winter. When the plugs
are removed for outdoor use, this provides adequate drainage for your soil. When indoors,
these plugs prevent a leaking mess.

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To install, press firmly on the top of the plug until the wider top is flush against the
bottom of the pot.

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Step 2: Arrange Bulbs & Soil

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Fill the container with 2/3 of the soil included in your kit. Place your lily bulbs with the
top facing up, spaced evenly in the container. Cover the lily bulbs with the remaining
soil so that they are 6” below the soil line.

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Step 3: Watering Your Lilies

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Water only when the soil is dry to the touch. If the sunny location you’ve chosen for
your container is in full sun during the hotter afternoon hours your soil is more likely to
dry out quickly.

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Soil should feel moist to the touch but not saturated. A good rule of thumb is to water your lilies every 3 days, or when the top inch of soil feels dry. Soil that becomes overly saturated can lead to bulb rot or other problems, so be sure you’re not over-watering.

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Step 4: After Care

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Lilies should be planted where they can get full sun or at least half day sun. In hot
climates they appreciate being shaded from afternoon heat. As the blossoms begin to
fade, you can snip them off to keep the plants looking neat. When all the flowers are
spent, remove the entire cluster of spent flowers, but leave the rest of the stem in place.

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Step 5: What to do When the Flowers Fade

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After blooming, be sure the lilies stay outside to gather sunlight. Leave the foliage on
the plant until fall. You can leave the bulbs in the same container for next year, just
move it to a protected location such as an unheated garage or shed. They can also be
removed from the container and replanted in perennial beds.

","user_segment_ids":[]},{"id":19895092611867,"url":"https://lfretail.zendesk.com/api/v2/help_center/en-us/articles/19895092611867.json","html_url":"https://tips.lfgardens.com/hc/en-us/articles/19895092611867-How-to-Grow-Callas-In-Containers","author_id":23192247828,"comments_disabled":true,"draft":false,"promoted":false,"position":0,"vote_sum":1,"vote_count":1,"section_id":115000710894,"created_at":"2023-10-26T19:26:13Z","updated_at":"2025-07-03T16:15:44Z","name":"How to Grow Callas In Containers","title":"How to Grow Callas In Containers","source_locale":"en-us","locale":"en-us","outdated":false,"outdated_locales":[],"edited_at":"2025-07-03T16:15:44Z","user_segment_id":null,"permission_group_id":377733,"content_tag_ids":[],"label_names":[],"body":"

How to Grow Callas In Containers

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Calla Lilies are one of the world’s most elegant and exotic cut flowers and they are easy
to grow in gardens and containers. The flowers last for weeks and make beautiful
centerpieces on patio tables or glamourous accent flowers for your porch.

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\nWhat’s Included in Your Kit \n

\n

Your kit includes a bag of soil, 3 calla lily rhizomes, the decorative pot, a lid and a small
plastic bag containing 3 rubber plugs.

\n

\n

Step 1: Save the Base Plugs

\n

 Your container comes with a bag containing three rubber plugs. Install the plugs when
starting your plants indoors or when moving inside to store for the winter. When the plugs
are removed for outdoor use, this provides adequate drainage for your soil. When indoors,
these plugs prevent a leaking mess.

\n


To install, press firmly on the top of the plug until the wider top is flush against the
bottom of the pot.

\n

\n

Step 2: Arrange Bulbs & Soil

\n

Fill the container with the whole bag of soil included in your kit. Dig a hole 2” deep. Set
the bulb into the hole with the “eyes” (top) facing up. Cover the bulbs with soil.

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Step 3: Watering

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Water lightly upon first planting. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the
plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like
conditions. Callas planted in pots tend to dry out faster than planted in the garden.

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Water your callas thoroughly when the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch.
To check soil place a finger 1” below the soil’s surface to feel for moisture. If your foliage
turns brown, you may be overwatering.

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Step 4: After Care

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Calla lilies grow best in full sun to part shade. Place your container in a location where it
receives about six hours of sunlight each day. After planting, it may take 2 weeks or
more for the first calla shoots to appear. Once this happens, the plants grow quickly.

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Spring planted calla lilies will bloom from June to August. In warm climates where
calla lilies are perennial, the plants typically flower earlier in the summer.

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Step 5: Caring for Calla Lilies After They Bloom

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During the growing season, calla lilies appreciate a monthly dose of liquid fertilizer. This
is especially important when they are grown in containers.

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In climates where calla lilies are winter hardy (zones 8-10), the rhizomes may be left in
the ground to bloom again the next summer. If flowering decreases over time, dig and
divide the rhizomes to restore vigorous growth.

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In cooler areas (zones 3-7), calla lilies are usually treated as annuals, with new bulbs
planted each spring. Alternatively, the rhizomes may be overwintered indoors, though
flower production may be diminished the second year.

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When trying to save callas for next year,, here's what to do. Fertilize the plants
throughout the growing season. Cut off the flower stems as soon as the blooms fade.
This will prevent the plants from setting seed and help conserve energy for next year’s
flowers. Continue fertilizing until the foliage begins to yellow.

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After the leaves have died back, or after the first frost, dig up the rhizomes and trim off
the foliage, leaving an inch or two of stem attached. Let the rhizomes cure in a warm,
dry place for several days and then put them into a box with barely damp peat moss.
Store the box in a dark place at 50-60°F. Check once or twice during the winter to make
sure the rhizomes are not too moist (rotting) or too dry (shriveling). Replant in spring.

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